Although we only had 3 full days in Hokkaido, our experience snowboarding and playing in Niseko was unparalleled! As clumps of snow fell on our last day, I struggled to extend our stay to no avail. But, we had 3 days of powder with no one on the mountain!!!!

Day 1 – Travel & Arrival

We arrived in Japan, spent the night in Tokyo, found our friends, then took a flight north to Hokkaido. At the Hokkaido Airport (New Chitose Airport near Sapporo), we grabbed our bags and ran into Thor! (Also called Chris Hemsworth in other realms.)  The snow must be really good here!

We then took a long drive through the snow to Niseko and Hinode Hills. It was a really nice hotel with big suites and amazing views. Everything about this stay was epic, from the food, to the service, to the amenities (on-site onsen!!!!) It was also really close to lifts, so we walked to eat and snowboard.

Niseko Board Rentals

For snowboard and ski rentals, please check the Niseko VIllage rental site. We rented our gear (boots, snowboards, and helmets) at the rental area within Hinode Hills, through there’s a bigger rental equipment counter at the Green Leaf. Neither require reservations and you can rent on the day you arrived. The rental operation hours were 8am to 4:30am daily. Though Hinode Hills has a smaller selection, they had everything we needed and were really helpful.

Niseko Ski School

For the kid’s Ski and snowboard lessons, we contacted them directly to see options, get the current winter catalogue, and figure out what they might need. Because of the 3 kids one had done lots of skiing and a little snowboarding, they were split up. But my 2 kids got to go together, which was great. Email: activity@niseko-village.com

Lessons are done right in front of Green Leaf, so they have easy access to lifts, food and bathrooms. Our kids enjoyed it and got much better with the 2 days of lessons.

Niseko Lift Tickets

We purchased the All-Mountain lift passes on the Niseko United website which had an online discount. After we purchased it on the site, we redeemed the lift passes at the lift pass machine with the QR codes. The lift pass machine is within the Hinode Hills rental area, but I think there are many around the resort area.

We’re glad we got the All-Mountain passes, beucase we did journey over to the Hirafu side. I think we would use it more if we had stayed a few more days. We could have stayed on the Niseko side the whole time and been fine though. Keep in mind that the lift passes are far less expensive than most US based mountain passes. If you would like to have only Niseko Village lift tickets, and there are no discounts on them.

Once we got fitted for snowboards and boots, we ran up this cool enclosed tube (used during the day as an uphill people mover) to a gondola to the little Niseko Village. None of us had eaten much that travel day, so we were really excited for a big meal. With many options, we settled for Hokkaido Yakiniku where we cooked at our tables and enjoyed lots of Wagyu beef. It was delicious and really fun. We even ate cow tongue!

NOTE: everyone says Japan is inexpensive due to the value of the Yen, but Niseko is more expensive than Tokyo. And some restaurants can be very pricey, including this one. Worth it though.

When we stepped out, the town was glowing in crazy colors projected onto buildings and the snow. I sweared it was the good Japanese Whisky, but the kids said they saw it too.

It was really cold! Then we got in some robes and went to the on-site onsen for a soak.

Day 2

We woke up to buckets of snow dumping outside! After an amazing breakfast at the hotel, we went sledding. Then the kids went to ski school in front of the Green Leaf while us parents went snowboarding higher up on the mountain.

I guess the week before we arrived, the snow was pretty bad. We came for the last week of the season, and we got lucky as it dumped fresh powder. It was AMAZING! Barely anyone was on the mountain, and we made fresh tracks every day.

We stopped for a really nice lunch at the Green Leaf’s Goshiki Restaurant with the kids, then headed back into the snow.

We finished our snow day at Green Leaf’s lobby bar for hot chocolate and other yummy cocktails. Later that night we got some sushi, which was good but nothing like the night before. Some of the sushi was excellent, but more than 1/2 was subpar. We have better sushi on Maui.

Day 3

Again, we woke up to loads of fresh powder! Another amazing breakfast at the hotel, then we rushed out to the snow. I came up with a nice idea to keep his butt from getting bruised. A pad that my daughter stole from me later on.

Again, the snow was incredible! It’s just such a beautiful area of the world. A winter wonderland! After ski school, we did a few runs with kids. Then we hit up the onsen again.

The kids had a sleepover at the hotel and watched Seinfeld while the parents went on a double date. We went to a pretty extraordinary steak house called Luke’s Alpine Club. It was delicious!

Day 5

Today, it was a bluebird day. Us Bergs decided against snowboarding, as the kids were pretty sore and wanted a day to just play in the snow. We made snowmen, went sledding, and had snowball fights. It was so much fun!

After a long fun day, the kids had another sleepover and the parents went to a really fancy multi-course meal at Amaya. This was truly special. Chef prepared omakase courses with Hokkaido wagyu beef, crab, sea urchin, scallops and more. Every dish was beautiful and delicious. We won’t forget this anytime soon.

Day 6 – Departure & Travel

We woke up to snow coming down in clumps. I did the math to see if we could pull of another few days, but it’d didn’t work out (extending stay, changing flights and vans, losing days in Tokyo and activities just cost too much.) We said goodbye to our friends (for now), and headed back to the airport.

At the airport, for just $12, I had some of the best wagyu of my life, and it came with a beer! We also had free samples of the famous Hokkaido milk, which was delicious! It was a great trip to Niseko. Now it’s time to go to Tokyo for 6 days!

Getting to Niseko

We initially looked into taking the high speed trains, but it would take a full day of travel. I’m sure that would be amazing, but after having experienced some of the trains after Tokyo, making any switches between lines would have been scary. So confusing. Instead, we flew with Japan Airlines. It was a super easy flight straight from Tokyo.

Once we landed in CTS, we had a 1.5-2 hour drive, so we make sure to have a driver and van ready to pick us up. I believe there are a lot of ways to get to Niseko, but this was the most convenient (not the cheapest though.)

Onsens

The Onsen at Hinode Hills was pretty simple but great. I personally didn’t get to check out the Green Leaf onsen, but I guess it was amazing! The ladies went twice. The reason we chose Hinode Hills over the Green Leaf was due to the suites. Everything at Green leaf is a little bigger except for the rooms. Since they’re next door, it worked out great!

Onsen Tips

• Look for an onsen that has a rotenburo or outdoor bath.
• If you don’t want to stay overnight at a ryokan but want the Japanese bath experience, you can always find a sento (public bath) just for the day. Or, your hotel/resort may have one.
• If you do want to book a ryokan at an onsen town, I use booking.com or a site called Jalan. 2 nights stay is nice because then you can fully enjoy a full evening and slow morning. Make sure all meals are included at your stay. Some will be buffet at the bigger ryokans, but I like the smaller ones that serve you the kaiseki course mea. Food quality varies based on price.
• Know, you need to be naked. So if you’re weird about nudity, look for one that is clothing optional or co-ed.
• Double check to see if they are tattoo friendly. You can find ryokan with a private onsen in the room but that gets expensive.

Other spots in Japan I want to Visit

Again, tips from our friend Mary and around the web!

Kyoto

I was told to do these day trips:

• Wazuka / Uji – Tea country: This is the epitome of Japanese countryside life. A much easier day trip from Osaka.
• Dmatcha Tea Tour: Very small and quaint, though you’ll need a taxi to get here
• Obubu tea farms: Easier access, but their tours are a little less intimate than dmatcha.
• Iga: ancient kiln, known for their pottery.
• Nijjō Castle: Located in the heart of Kyoto, is a UNESCO World Heritage Site known for its ornate interiors, “nightingale floors,” and centuries of shogunal history.
• Ine: A boat village in Nothern Kyoto, VERY far out but beautiful I hear. Probably need an over night trip there.

Kyoto Tip: Be aware of a new law Kyoto Government passed for the area of Gion limiting tourists down private alleys.

Nara

We’ve been told to avoid crowds, check out places in Nara Prefecture (other than the deer park), it’s a beautiful and underrated prefecture.

• Yoshino:  a fantastic spot for viewing sakura, get ready for crowds in the spring though
• Naramachi: Wandering through Naramachi is said to feel like stepping into old Japan, where narrow lanes weave past preserved merchant homes, hidden temples, and tiny shops brimming with local charm.
• Asuka: Asuka whispers of Japan’s ancient beginnings, where quiet rice fields cradle stone tombs, shrine paths, and the remnants of the first imperial capital.
• Uda: where medicinal herbs like Yamato Toki have been cultivated since the Asuka Period and traditional inns still serve healing meals rooted in centuries-old practice. Known for kampo/yakuzen (traditional medicine).

A fun way to meet locals – Eatwith – where locals host dinners in their homes. I’m gonna try this one in May.

Osaka

While most visitors flock to central Osaka, think Dotonbori’s neon buzz and Kuromon Market’s street eats, we’re told it’s best staying north of the Tosabori River, where the pace slows and local gems shine. We went to Dononbori District during a long layover about 15 years ago!

• Tenma & Kizu: Two of Osaka’s beloved food market areas, perfect for wandering, snacking, and people-watching.
• Nakazakicho: A hipster enclave filled with vintage shops, indie cafés, and narrow alleys bursting with character.
• Haiku Coffee Roasters: Tucked in Nakazakicho, this Hawaii-inspired specialty café is known for light roast pour-overs. One of the owners, Kali, is from Maui.
• Umeda: A bustling hub of shopping, transit, and towering views—Osaka’s modern edge in full swing.
• Kitashinchi: Known for its polished nightlife scene, this area comes alive after dark with intimate bars, jazz lounges, and upscale dining.

A few more tips:

• • I’m learning Osaka has a lot of Indian / Nepalese curry places? Not sure why, but they all look delicious.
  • Definitely find another shotengai or bar area where you can experience “tachinomi” where you stand and eat/drink. This is more common in the northern neighborhoods in Kita-ku.
  • A fun way to meet locals – EatWith – where locals host dinners in their homes.