This blog post is a little premature, but I’ve had a lot of friends ask what our plans are. We’ll be doing less than 2 weeks in Japan (along with every other person I’ve talked to lately!) Part of it will be in the Hokkaido prefecture to snowboard, but the bulk will be in Tokyo.
This is our first real trip to Japan (though we’ve had intentionally long layovers in Japan, where we explored a bit.) We’ll only have 6 full days, so we’ve broken everything we want to see into regional affairs.
FOOD!
We Norbergs let our stomachs lead the way when we travel. We’ve been a bit slow to book Michelin-starred restaurants, but we got at least one. We’re going to check out Nôl.
We’ve also been told about the following spots from Mary:
Kanda/Jimbocho area – known for their kissaten (retro cafes) and book stores
- Ponchiken – Great tonkatsu – if you go to any tonkatsu restaurant you’ll probably be satisfied with their basic teishoku set meal on any menu. It can get pricey if you get the nice cuts but not always noticeable.
- Tama Sushi – humble sushi shop, Norio-san, super friendly owner who does his best to communicate in English. Great place to practice your Japanese if you sit at the bar! Roughly 3000 JPY for his omakase of 10ish(?) pieces? He usually tells you about how much beforehand and asks if it’s okay.
- Ningyocho – known for old establishments, artisans, restaurants, traditional sweets etc.
- Hatsune – 200+ year old shop that serves traditional sweets (anmitsu)
Smaller restaurants in Japan don’t really have this “wait time” concept. Either you stand in line (like at a ramen restaurant where it moves quickly) or they’re full and you find another place to eat. Some restaurants might have a board for you to add your name, but don’t be surprised if they don’t really have an answer when you ask “How long is the wait?”
“Look for the curry pan booth and Imo Pippi, which has creme brulee served in a sweet potato and sweet potato over ice cream. I wish we had more time just to eat in Asakusa because there’s SO MUCH FOOD.” – Serene
Useful apps:
- Ramen Beast – a map of ramen shops near you
- Tabelog website – Japanese version of yelp (3.5+ stars is considered good)
- Google Maps – trains and times
Team Labs & Fish Markets
teamLab in Tokyo is an immersive digital art collective that blends technology, art, and interactivity to create mesmerizing, ever-evolving installations. Using projections, motion sensors, and light, the exhibits respond to visitors’ movements, making each experience unique. With themes of nature, connection, and endless exploration, teamLab’s has 2 exhibitions in Tokyo: Borderless and Planets. We’ve heard nothing but good things, and this is right up our artistic alleys, so we’re doing both.
Borderless & Tsukiji
Since each is next to a respective popular fish market, we’re pairing these. When we go to Borderless, We’ll check out Tsukiji Fish Market early. Tokyo’s Tsukiji Fish Market, once the world’s largest wholesale seafood market, closed its inner market in 2018, moving operations to Toyosu. However, the outer market remains a bustling hub of fresh seafood, street food, and local specialties. Visitors can enjoy sushi, grilled seafood, and Japanese delicacies while exploring small shops selling kitchenware and gourmet ingredients.
This spot is said to be the most touristy and expensive, but you can grab many different bites, and the ambiance is supposed to be great. We’ll be walking to Borderless after eating our fill. Then, after TeamLab, we’ll likely take a quick taxi to an Epic Tea Shop – We’re told this spot is amazing. Natalie will want to make this trip, for sure.
Planets & Toyosu
Though it’s said to be more sterile and not as charming as Tsukiji, Toyosu Fish Market features high-tech auction areas, fresh seafood vendors, and top-tier sushi restaurants, offering a cleaner, more structured experience than its predecessor. it’s more about the sit down restaurant here rather than snacky stalls, but we intend to try at least one before walking to Planets.
Family-Friendly Places to Stay in Tokyo
Villa Fontaine Grand Haneda Airport
We have a one night stay in Tokyo before heading up to the snow at Niseko. Instead of traveling to a hotel and back, we decided on the Villa Fontaine Grand Haneda Airport. Airport hotels are typically nothing to get excited about, but every airport we’ve visited in Japan has been exceptional. After the long flight, and another flight and long drive coming the next day, it made sense to make things as easy as possible. I’m sure it’ll be great. The room has plenty of space and everyone gets a bed. Restful sleep is our #1 goal for this night.
Mimaru Tokyo Ueno Okachimachi
After much research, we found that the Mimaru Hotels cater well to families with plenty of space. Though there are many locations within Tokyo, Ueno is in a quieter area, and it walking distance to some of the things we want to see, including the cherry blossoms. Fingers crossed they’re going when we’re there. We also picked this spot because it was an easy access point for transportation.
Shibuya-ku
Shibuya is one of Tokyo’s 23 special wards, located on the southwestern side of central Tokyo. It’s known as a major commercial and entertainment hub—particularly around Shibuya Station and its famous scramble crossing. Though it’s touristy and crowded, there are a few things we want to explore here, so we’ll spend a day around this area. Some of these spots include:
- Cat Street – A hip, pedestrian-friendly path between Shibuya and Harajuku lined with trendy boutiques, cafés, and streetwear shops—often less crowded than nearby shopping areas.
- Harojuko Fashion District – Centered around Harajuku Station, famous for avant-garde street fashion, pop-culture boutiques, and youth subcultures, showcasing Tokyo’s latest style trends.
- Takeshita Shopping Street – A bustling, narrow street in Harajuku known for quirky fashion, colorful sweets, and teen-centric pop culture stores—an iconic spot for people-watching.
- Shibuya Crossing – One of the world’s busiest pedestrian intersections, located in front of Shibuya Station. Tourists often watch the scramble from nearby cafés or tall buildings. I really just want to visit one of the roof top cafes and grab a timelapse of the street.
- Tea Ceremony – A traditional Japanese cultural practice focused on the preparation and serving of matcha (green tea) with precise etiquette, emphasizing harmony and mindfulness.
- Meiji Shrine – A tranquil Shinto shrine in a forested area of Shibuya, dedicated to Emperor Meiji and Empress Shoken. Known for its large torii gates and peaceful, wooded grounds.
Taitō Ward (Ueno)
This is where we’re staying, so a lot of this is in walking distance. Ueno is a district in Tokyo’s Taitō Ward, located in the northeastern part of central Tokyo. It’s known for Ueno Park, several major museums, and Ueno Zoo (though we hear it’s bad). It’s also a key transportation hub (Ueno Station), providing easy access to other parts of the city and beyond.
- Cherry Blossoms at Ueno Park – In spring, the park’s pathways are lined with blooming sakura trees, making it a top spot for hanami (cherry blossom viewing).
- Knife District (Kappabashi Dougu Street) – Just a 10–15 minute walk from Ueno or Asakusa, this street specializes in high-quality kitchenware and professional-grade Japanese knives. I’m dying to upgrade our kitchen!
- Akihabara – A short walk or train ride from Ueno, famous for electronics, anime/manga shops, maid cafés, and popular go-kart tours through the city streets. Witty is excited about getting some One Piece and Naruto paraphenalia.
- Asakusa Sumo – Near Ueno, Ryōgoku Kokugikan hosts sumo tournaments. We’ll book tickets in advance to watch matches or morning practice. We’re told to check the sumo schedule. Unfortunately, the dates don’t align with ours. So, we’re doing the more touristy Asakusa Sumo Stable dinner and show.
- Chagohan (Asakusa Classic Ramen and Crispy Gyoza Class) – A hands-on cooking class in Asakusa that teaches you to prepare traditional ramen and gyoza, offering an immersive taste of Japanese cuisine.
- Japanese Baseball – Though in Spring Training, we’re going to watch the Giants play some baseball. We have nose bleed tickets to watch the Giants play the Marines.
- Tokyo SkyTree – Tokyo Skytree, Japan’s tallest structure, soars 634 meters above the city, blending futuristic design with traditional aesthetics. It has a panoramic observation decks, immersive digital exhibits, and a vibrant shopping and dining complex. By day, it offers sweeping views of Mount Fuji; by night, it glows with dynamic LED displays. It has a shuttle from Ueno.
Mount Fuji
Mount Fuji can be admired from various vantage points around the Fuji Five Lakes region (notably Lake Kawaguchiko) and from Hakone’s scenic spots like Owakudani and Lake Ashi. For those interested in hiking, the most popular route is the Yoshida Trail, which typically opens in summer (early July to early September). Other trails—Subashiri, Gotemba, and Fujinomiya—provide alternate ascents with different gradients and views. Outside climbing season, visitors can hike lower-elevation trails or take the Fuji Subaru Line to the 5th Station for partial views without a full summit attempt.
We’re doing a day trip, and though we’re not doing a full days hike, we want to visit some non-touristy viewing points as well as check out some small villages. Uncle Ken did some amazing hikes and tours with Masaki from Fuji Sunrise (you can see Uncle Ken in some of the pictures!), so we decided to ask Masaki for a unique private tour. More to come!
Other Ideas if we have time
We don’t have much time in Tokyo, but here are some other options if we find an afternoon or day open.
- Onsens – We’re hoping to find at least a few natural hot springs (either from the source or fed in.) Here are some tips from our Marie, a frequent visitor of Tokyo: double check to see if they are tattoo friendly. You can find ryokan with a private onsen in the room but that gets expensive. Look for an onsen that has a rotenburo or outdoor bath. If you don’t want to stay overnight at a ryokan but want the Japanese bath experience, you can always find a sento (public bath) just for the day. If you do want to book a ryokan at an onsen town – Check out Jalan. 2 nights stay is nice because then you can fully enjoy a full evening and slow morning. Make sure all meals are included at your stay. Some will be buffet at the bigger ryokans, but I like the smaller ones that serve you the kaiseki course meal — food quality varies based on price.
- Imperial Palace – The Tokyo Imperial Palace is the primary residence of Japan’s Emperor, situated on the former site of Edo Castle near Tokyo Station. Visitors often explore the East Gardens, open to the public and showcasing remnants of historic castle walls and gates. Guided tours of the inner grounds can be reserved through the Imperial Household Agency but are limited in availability. Strolling around the outer palace area reveals scenic moats, stone bridges like the famous Nijubashi, and a peaceful green space amid central Tokyo’s modern skyscrapers.
- Surf Stadium – I don’t think we’ll have time, but this would be amazing. I loved my sessions at the Bristol wave pool. It’s just far away enough from the center of Tokyo, that it would likely require it’s own day trip.
- Clearly, we need to come again for longer…
Travel Tips
- Customs Documents – You can fill out customs documents before hand online here. Take a screenshot of the QR codes before departing that way you don’t need to worry about having service to pull up your QR codes when you land. Make sure you have 2 QR codes – one for immigration, one for customs.
- eSim – I’ve had a lot of luck using Airalo when we visited Europe, and I’ve heard from friends it works well in Japan too. You download the app, pay for a plan, Set up your phone properly, then get to use it for data in Japan. Easy. This time, however, we’re going to upgrade our current phone plan. We have Verizon via Spectrum, and it’s only $10/month to upgrade to unlimited data, text, phone for international roaming. Cheaper and easier than esim, but we have to remember to downgrade after the trip.
- Pack Light – Everyone has said to pack light and maybe even bring an extra suitcase (or buy one in Japan) because things are relatively inexpensive, and you can get items not always available in the States.
- Trash Bags – We’re bringing a few small trashbags for each day of our visit. I guess trashcans are hard to find, so everyone brings their own and disposes of rubbish when back at the hotel.
- Duolingo – The whole family started a few weeks ago. 5-10 minutes a day make it fun to pick up at least a few important words. It’s free, but we did the family plan to cut out ads.
- Luggage Delivery – I don’t know if we’ll use it, but luggage delivery is cheap and easy and available all over the place. It’s a common thing to send your luggage from one hotel to the next to save the hassle.
- Yen – We’re told that cash is king in Japan, so we ordered some Yen from our bank to bring (good rate.) If you get it in Japan, we’re told the best deals are at ATMs at 7-11s. We’ve also heard 7-11 is a different beast in Japan. They actually have pretty epic grinds.
- Public Transport – If you want to ride around easy get a Pasmo/Suica. I thought this would be difficult, but it was pretty easy with the iPhone. Go to Apple Wallet, hit the plus button, add transit card, then go to SUICA. I set it up and added $20 per person. Make sure to select Express Transit Card. If unsure, once you have the card, you can hit the 3 dots and check details. There’s a toggle for Express Transit ON. Once they’re set up, all you have to do is put your phone near the reader, and it automatically allows you on trains, etc… Even if the phone is dead! Make sure each person in your party has a device with their own card (you can’t swipe it twice.) There are deals for kids cards, but the discount is negligible, and we’re not doing a ton of travel, so we just went with adult cards to make things easy from home.
- Storage Lockers – extremely popular these days, lockers at stations are often full. Some stations have rooms where you can store your luggage but you have to be sure to pick up your bags before closing time.
- more to come!
More Tips from Mary
I’m sure these are all good, but I’m going to redo them once we’ve explored.
- Nakameguro – trendy area great for bars, restaurants, boutiques — good chance it’s very crowded if the blossoms are out, there’s a river lined with cherry trees
- Shimokitazawa – hipster central, fun place to thrift shop
- Ebisu has similar vibes to northeast Tokyo, but last time I was there was like 8 years ago.
- Kichijoji – super local neighborhood, great for barhopping — Culinary Backstreets does a tour here – they also launched a new tour that looks pretty cool in eastern Tokyo! CB tours are expensive, but worth it. If you do a tour, recommend doing it on your first night in the city – great way kickstart your intro to the city and have context to build off of the rest of the time you’re there. Check the list of foods if you can – you’ve been to Japan before and will have been there for a week already, make sure sounds like it’ll still be new to you.
- Yanaka Ginza – granny shopping area, super retro, great for sampling street food and just walking around
- Cat Street – connects Shibuya to Jingumae (Harajuku area) – filled with boutiques, cafes, etc. Also haven’t been there since pre-covid.
- Roppongi Park and Shinjuku Garden are both beautiful for fall foliage or spring too I imagine.
- Find a shotengai (shopping area or alley) and just explore! I think Ebisu, Yurakucho, Kichjoji will be great for this. Shinjuku is WAY TOO CROWDED.
Some Important Phrases
Basic Greetings & Politeness
• Hello – KOHN-nee-chee-wah
• Good morning – Oh-ha-YOH go-zai-mass
• Good evening – KOHN-bahn-wah
• Goodbye – Sah-YOH-nah-rah jaa neh
• See you later – Mah-tah neh
• Please koo-dah-sai
• Thank you – Ah-ree-GAH-toh
• Thank you very much – Ah-ree-GAH-toh go-zai-mass
• Excuse me / Sorry – Soo-mee-mah-sen
• Please – Oh-neh-GAI shee-mass
• Yes – Hai
• No – EE-eh
Essential Travel Phrases
• Do you speak English? – Eh-go oh ha-nah-seh-mahs kah?
• I don’t understand – (Wakarimasen) Wah-kah-ree-mah-sen
• Help please? – (Tasukete kudasai) Tah-soo-keh-teh koo-dah-sai
• Where is…? – (… wa doko desu ka?) wah doh-koh dess kah?
◦ Where is the bathroom? – (Toire wa doko desu ka?) Toy-reh wah doh-koh dess kah?
◦ Where is the train station? – (Eki wa doko desu ka?) Eh-kee wah doh-koh dess kah?
• How much is this? – (Kore wa ikura desu ka?) Koh-reh wah ee-koo-rah dess kah?
• I would like this one – (Kore o kudasai) Koh-reh oh koo-dah-sai
• I’m lost – (Michi ni mayoimashita) Mee-chee nee mah-yoh-ee-mah-shee-tah
• I need a doctor – (Isha ga hitsuyō desu) Ee-shah gah hee-tsoo-yoh dess
• Can I use a credit card? – (Kurejitto kādo wa tsukaemasu ka?) Koo-reh-jit-to kah-doh wah tsu-kah-eh-mahs kah?
Dining & Food
• A menu, please – Meh-nyoo oh koo-dah-sai
• I have a food allergy – (Arerugī ga arimasu) Ah-reh-roo-gee gah ah-ree-mahs
• Can I have water, please? – (Omizu o kudasai) Oh-mee-zoo oh koo-dah-sai
• Cheers! – Kanpai) Kahn-ai
Transportation
• Train – 電車 (でんしゃ, Densha) Den-shah
• Subway – 地下鉄 (ちかてつ, Chikatetsu) Chee-kah-teh-tsu
• Taxi – タクシー (Takushī) Tah-koo-shee
• Bus – バス (Basu) Bah-soo
• Airport – 空港 (くうこう, Kūkō) Koo-koh
• Ticket – 切符 (きっぷ, Kippu) Kee-poo
• One ticket to [Tokyo], please – [東京]までの切符をください ([Tōkyō] made no kippu o kudasai) [Toh-kyoh] mah-deh noh kee-poo oh koo-dah-sai
Shopping
• Do you have this in a different size? – (Betsu no saizu wa arimasu ka?) Beht-soo noh sai-zoo wah ah-ree-mahs kah?
• It’s too expensive – (Takasugimasu) Tah-kah-soo-gee-mahs
• Can you give me a discount? – (Nebiki dekimasu ka?) Neh-bee-kee deh-kee-mahs kah?
• I’m just looking – (Mite iru dake desu) Mee-teh ee-roo dah-keh dess
Cultural Phrases & Manners
• Nice to meet you – (Hajimemashite) Hah-jee-meh-mah-shee-teh doze o yo rush kuh
• I’m from [America] – ([Amerika] kara kimashita) [Ah-meh-ree-kah] kah-rah kee-mah-shee-tah
• I love Japan! – (Nihon ga daisuki desu) Nee-hon gah dai-skee dess
• I’m sorry (deep apology) – (Gomen nasai) Goh-men nah-sai
• Excuse me (passing through a crowd) – (Sumimasen) Soo-mee-mah-sen
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