We did our Spring Break in Japan (along with every other person in Hawaii!)  Part of it was in the Hokkaido prefecture to snowboard, but the bulk was within Tokyo. We also did a day trip around Mount Fuji.

This was our first real trip to Japan (though we’ve had intentionally long layovers in Japan, where we explored a bit.) We only had 6 full days, so we’ve broken everything we want to see into regional sites per day. It worked out rather well.

Tokyo with Kids Video

Before you read anything else, do these things before you arrive:

• Customs Documents – You can fill out customs documents before hand online here. Take a screenshot of the QR codes before departing that way you don’t need to worry about having service to pull up your immigration QR code when you land. Once you’ve arrived and gone through, you can set up a customs GR for shopping tax free. Whenever you see a tax free shop, use the QR.
• eSim – I’ve had a lot of luck using Airalo when we visited Europe, and I’ve heard from friends it works well in Japan too. You download the app, pay for a plan, Set up your phone properly, then get to use it for data in Japan. Easy.  This time, however, we upgraded our current phone plan. We have Verizon via Spectrum, and it’s only $10/month per line to upgrade to unlimited data, text, phone for international roaming. Cheaper and easier than esim, but we had to remember to downgrade after the trip.
• Duolingo – The whole family started a few weeks before the trip. 5-10 minutes a day makes it fun to pick up at least a few important words. It’s free, but we did the family plan to cut out ads. I’ve also made a laminated cheat sheet with a bunch of common/useful phrases to carry around. Most people speak English, but being able to speak a few phrases goes a long way.
• Public Transport – If you want to ride around easy get a Pasmo/Suica card.  I thought this would be difficult, but it was pretty easy with the iPhone. Go to Apple Wallet, hit the plus button, add transit card, then go to SUICA.  I set it up and added $20 per person.  Make sure to select Express Transit Card. If unsure, once you have the card, you can hit the 3 dots and check details.  There’s a toggle for Express Transit ON. Once they’re set up, all you have to do is put your phone near the reader, and it automatically allows you on trains, subways, buses, etc…  Even if the phone is dead!  Make sure each person in your party has a device with their own card (you can’t swipe it twice.) There are deals for kids cards, but the discount is negligible, and we’re not doing a ton of travel, so we just went with adult cards to make things easy from home. use Google Maps to find stations and stops.

FOOD!

We let our stomachs lead the way when we travel. We’ve been a bit slow to book Michelin-starred restaurants, but we got at least one.  We went to Nôl. Their site said no children 12 and under, but we sent a message explaining just how mature and polite our kids are, and they encouraged our reservation. We had an incredible multi-course meal. Every dish was delicious, unique, and with sustainability in mind. We were 1 of 2 tables in the restaurant, and we were treated like gold.

Our friend Mary also told us about these areas, but we didn’t get to them:

Kanda/Jimbocho area – known for their kissaten (retro cafes) and book stores

• Ponchiken – Great tonkatsu – if you go to any tonkatsu restaurant you’ll probably be satisfied with their basic teishoku set meal on any menu. It can get pricey if you get the nice cuts but not always noticeable.
• Tama Sushi – humble sushi shop, Norio-san, super friendly owner who does his best to communicate in English. Great place to practice your Japanese if you sit at the bar! Roughly 3000 JPY for his omakase of 10ish(?) pieces? He usually tells you about how much beforehand and asks if it’s okay.
• Ningyocho – known for old establishments, artisans, restaurants, traditional sweets etc.
• Hatsune – 200+ year old shop that serves traditional sweets (anmitsu)

Smaller restaurants in Japan don’t really have this “wait time” concept. Either you stand in line (like at a ramen restaurant where it moves quickly) or they’re full and you find another place to eat. Some restaurants might have a board for you to add your name, but don’t be surprised if they don’t really have an answer when you ask “How long is the wait?”

“Look for the curry pan booth and Imo Pippi, which has creme brulee served in a sweet potato and sweet potato over ice cream. I wish we had more time just to eat in Asakusa because there’s SO MUCH FOOD.” – Serene

Useful apps:

• Ramen Beast – a map of ramen shops near you.
• Tabelog website – Japanese version of yelp (3.5+ stars is considered good.) I used the map, and stuck to spots that were orange (not yellow.)
• Google Maps – trains and times. We lived in Google Maps.

TeamLabs & Fish Markets

TeamLab in Tokyo is an immersive digital art collective that blends technology, art, and interactivity to create mesmerizing, ever-evolving installations. Using projections, motion sensors, and light, the exhibits respond to visitors’ movements, making each experience unique. With themes of nature, connection, and endless exploration, teamLab’s has 2 exhibitions in Tokyo:  Borderless and Planets.  We’d heard nothing but good things, and this was right up our artistic alleys, so we did both.

Borderless & Tsukiji

We were not disappointed. When I first walked in, I was a little underwhelmed.  Large, high-ceilinged black rooms with projections. But then we stepped into room after room of WOW! Hard to explain. And once my cup was full, we went back to the beginning rooms.  I then realized all the light projections are interactive!  The kids ran around catching fish, and then they would explore into flowers.  It was incredible!

Since each is next to a respective popular fish market, we’re pairing these. When we go to Borderless, We’ll check out Tsukiji Fish Market early. Tokyo’s Tsukiji Fish Market, once the world’s largest wholesale seafood market, closed its inner market in 2018, moving operations to Toyosu. However, the outer market remains a bustling hub of fresh seafood, street food, and local specialties. Visitors can enjoy sushi, grilled seafood, and Japanese delicacies while exploring small shops selling kitchenware and gourmet ingredients.

I had a massive bowl of uni, fatty tuna, rice and joy. It was MAGIC!  We ended up going back to Tsukiji and grabbing some wagyu as well (down an alley.) We also ordered some of the best beef jerky ever (wagyu also.) All the treats and snacks along the way cost a pretty penny, but it was worth every one of them. I would consider staying nearby next time and visiting every morning. so fresh! So crowded. So worth it!

This spot is said to be the most touristy and expensive, but you can grab many different bites, and the ambiance is great. We took the subway to Borderless after eating our fill.

Planets & Toyosu

Planets may well have been better than Borderless, but it’s a tough comparison. We loved both so much!  They’re each different in their own ways, though they have one light exhibit that’s similar.  The orchid garden is mind-blowing, and we almost missed it. Walking through the water was really fun too (interactive light projections on the water as you walk through it!)

Though it’s said to be more sterile and not as charming as Tsukiji, Toyosu Fish Market features high-tech auction areas, fresh seafood vendors, and top-tier sushi restaurants, offering a cleaner, more structured experience than its predecessor. It’s more about the sit down restaurant here rather than snacky stalls, but we intended to try at least one before walking to Planets. Unfortunately, we didn’t have time!

Family-Friendly Places to Stay in Tokyo

Villa Fontaine Grand Haneda Airport

We had a one night stay in Tokyo before heading up to the snow at Niseko. Instead of traveling to a hotel and back, we decided on the Villa Fontaine Grand Haneda Airport (the lesser of the two Villa Fontaines). Airport hotels are typically nothing to get excited about, but every airport we’ve visited in Japan has been exceptional. After the long flight, and another flight and long drive coming the next day, it made sense to make things as easy as possible. It was perfect and suited our needs.  The room had 4 beds, so our exhausted jetlag bodies could enjoy our own space. Restful sleep was our #1 goal for that night. We wanted to grab dinner at one of the restaurants within walking distance, but we were broken tired.  We crashed hard and won.

Mimaru Tokyo Ueno Okachimachi

After much research, we found that the Mimaru Hotels cater well to families with plenty of space. Though there are many locations within Tokyo, Ueno is in a quieter area, and is walking distance to some of the things we want to see, including the cherry blossoms in Ueno Park. We also picked this spot because it was an easy access point for transportation.  Depending on where we wanted to go, stations were within 3-10 minutes walking distance.

The hotel room was nice with plenty of space. We had a table that could seat 6, a traditional Japanese seating area we didn’t use much, 2 built in bunk beds, and 2 beds put together for the adults. 1 bathroom was a challenge, but it had the heated Japanese seat with bidet, so we fought through it.  All in all, I would stay here again.  It was close to a bunch of restaurants, shopping, and some really fun areas.  The only problem was that there were specks of mold in the bathroom and a filthy filter above the bath. Hanging nasty grit. Made us worry about how clean everything else was.

Shibuya-ku

Shibuya is one of Tokyo’s 23 special wards, located on the southwestern side of central Tokyo. It’s known as a major commercial and entertainment hub—particularly around Shibuya Station and its famous scramble crossing.

Though it’s touristy and crowded, there are a few things we wanted to explore here, so we spent a day around this area.  Some of these spots included:

• Cat Street – A hip, pedestrian-friendly path between Shibuya and Harajuku lined with trendy boutiques, cafés, and streetwear shops—often less crowded than nearby shopping areas. Keep in mind, we didn’t find any cat cafe’s here.  It’s just a cool shopping area.
• Harojuko Fashion District – Centered around Harajuku Station, famous for avant-garde street fashion, pop-culture boutiques, and youth subcultures, showcasing Tokyo’s latest style trends. There’s non-stop people watching here. The boys were thoroughly bored, but the ladies loved it.
• Takeshita Shopping Street – A bustling, narrow street in Harajuku known for quirky fashion, colorful sweets, and teen-centric pop culture stores. it’s an iconic spot for people-watching. I can’t tell you whether we actually went here or not. Lots of wondering around…
• Shibuya Crossing – One of the world’s busiest pedestrian intersections, located in front of Shibuya Station. Tourists often watch the scramble from nearby cafés or tall buildings. I really just wanted to visit one of the roof top cafes and grab a timelapse of the street. instead, we went to a Pokeman sort of tiny museum and store above Starbucks with a view.
• Tea Ceremony – A traditional Japanese cultural practice focused on the preparation and serving of matcha (green tea) with precise etiquette, emphasizing harmony and mindfulness. We never found this.
• Meiji Shrine – A tranquil Shinto shrine in a forested area of Shibuya, dedicated to Emperor Meiji and Empress Shoken. Known for its large torii gates and peaceful, wooded grounds.
• Maybe 1/2 day – I think 1/2 a day would have been enough, but we got pulled in. We ate at some kind of mall, which was the worst food we’d had.

Taitō Ward (Ueno)

This is where we stayed, so a lot of this is in walking distance. Ueno is a district in Tokyo’s Taitō Ward, located in the northeastern part of central Tokyo.

It’s known for Ueno Park (think Cherry Blossoms meet carnival), several major museums, and Ueno Zoo (though we hear it’s bad). It’s also a key transportation hub (Ueno Station), providing easy access to other parts of the city and beyond.

• Cherry Blossoms at Ueno Park – In spring, the park’s pathways are lined with blooming sakura trees, making it a top spot for hanami (cherry blossom viewing). We saw a few, but the late winter didn’t make them all fire until the week after visiting. Still, the park is very cool!  Pedal boats in the lake, never ending food booths, live music, shopping, and trained monkeys. That poor monkey… Some of the food was good, but it was definitely a more touristy thing.  We liked the whole experience and went twice.
• Knife District (Kappabashi Dougu Street) – Just a 10–15 minute walk from Ueno or Asakusa, this street specializes in high-quality kitchenware and professional-grade Japanese knives. We bought a few pretty epic knives. There’s not much in way of restaurants, but we managed to find a small hole in the wall.
• Akihabara – A short walk or train ride from Ueno, famous for electronics, anime/manga shops, maid cafés, and popular go-kart tours through the city streets. My boy was excited about getting some One Piece and Naruto paraphenalia. He loved it and found Pokemon cards, a Luffy figurine, and plenty books and small toys.
• Asakusa – We stumbled on this area by mistake, and we loved it! Sort of like a Japanese Disneyland in the way it’s set up and has loads of restaurants, shopping, and things to see.  All the buildings are beautiful and the food is amazing! We wish we had found it earlier, as we would have gone twice.
• Japanese Baseball – Though in Spring Training, we went to watch the Giants play some baseball. We have nose bleed tickets to watch the Giants play the Marines. We got super cheap tickets in the Giants Fan Section, where we’re forced to only route for the Giants. SO Glad we did too!  It was so much fun! We joined in on the chants, songs, and hand gestures. The stadium isn’t as big as some that we’re used to, so we could see everything really well.
• Tokyo SkyTree – Tokyo Skytree, Japan’s tallest structure, soars 634 meters above the city, blending futuristic design with traditional aesthetics. It has panoramic observation decks, immersive digital exhibits, and a shopping and dining complex. By day, it offers sweeping views of Mount Fuji, and by night, it glows with dynamic LED displays. It has a shuttle from Ueno. Unfortunately, it was a little cloudy when we went, but it was still really cool.

Mount Fuji

Mount Fuji can be admired from various vantage points around the Fuji Five Lakes region (notably Lake Kawaguchiko) and from Hakone’s scenic spots like Owakudani and Lake Ashi. For those interested in hiking, the most popular route is the Yoshida Trail, which typically opens in summer (early July to early September). Other trails—Subashiri, Gotemba, and Fujinomiya—provide alternate ascents with different gradients and views. Outside climbing season, visitors can hike lower-elevation trails or take the Fuji Subaru Line to the 5th Station for partial views without a full summit attempt.

We did a day trip with Masaki-san, and though we didn’t do a full days hike, we wanted to visit some non-touristy viewing points as well as check out some small villages.  Uncle Ken did some amazing hikes and tours with Masaki-san from Fuji Sunrise (you can see Uncle Ken in some of the pictures!), so we decided to ask Masaki-san for a unique private tour.  We had a blast! Hiking through snow to a platform that had the best view of Mount Fuji, eating a picnic in a local park with more views, and even visiting a lake with amazing views of Mount Fuji. The highlight was an unexpected waterfall trip.  UNREAL!

Some Things We Missed

We don’t have much time in Tokyo, but here are some other options if we find an afternoon or day open.

• Onsens – We hoped to find at least a few natural hot springs (either from the source or fed in.) We didn’t visit any in Tokyo, but we had some great experiences in Hokkaido. Here are some tips from our Marie, a frequent visitor of Tokyo: double check to see if they are tattoo friendly. You can find ryokan with a private onsen in the room but that gets expensive. Look for an onsen that has a rotenburo or outdoor bath. If you don’t want to stay overnight at a ryokan but want the Japanese bath experience, you can always find a sento (public bath) just for the day. If you do want to book a ryokan at an onsen town – Check out Jalan. 2 nights stay is nice because then you can fully enjoy a full evening and slow morning. Make sure all meals are included at your stay. Some will be buffet at the bigger ryokans, but I like the smaller ones that serve you the kaiseki course meal — food quality varies based on price.
• Asakusa Sumo – Near Ueno, Ryōgoku Kokugikan hosts sumo tournaments. We wanted to book tickets in advance to watch matches or morning practice. Check the sumo schedule. Unfortunately, the dates didn’t align with ours. So, we tried to do the touristy Asakusa Sumo Stable dinner and show. It’s supposed to be a lot of fun, but it was sold out months in advance. Bummer.
• Chagohan (Asakusa Classic Ramen and Crispy Gyoza Class) – A hands-on cooking class in Asakusa that teaches you to prepare traditional ramen and gyoza, offering an immersive taste of Japanese cuisine.
• Imperial Palace – The Tokyo Imperial Palace is the primary residence of Japan’s Emperor, situated on the former site of Edo Castle near Tokyo Station. Visitors often explore the East Gardens, open to the public and showcasing remnants of historic castle walls and gates. Guided tours of the inner grounds can be reserved through the Imperial Household Agency but are limited in availability. Strolling around the outer palace area reveals scenic moats, stone bridges like the famous Nijubashi, and a peaceful green space amid central Tokyo’s modern skyscrapers.
• Surf Stadium – We didn’t have time do go…  I loved my sessions at the Bristol wave pool. It’s just far away enough from the center of Tokyo, that it would likely require it’s own day trip.
• We were told to check out this Epic Tea Shop.
• Clearly, we need to come again for longer…

Travel Tips

• Pack Light – Everyone has said to pack light and maybe even bring an extra suitcase (or buy one in Japan) because things are relatively inexpensive, and you can get items not always available in the States. We bought a bunch of stuff, and I wish I had an extra bag.
• Trash Bags – We brought a few small trashbags for each day of our visit. We were told trashcans are hard to find, so everyone brings their own and disposes of rubbish when back at the hotel. Yes, they’re not everywhere, but I always seemed to find one.
• Luggage Delivery – We didn’t use it, but luggage delivery is cheap and easy and available all over the place. It’s a common thing to send your luggage from one hotel to the next to save the hassle. If traveling on trains and subways, I can see how that would be really nice, but we flew and took private vans when traveling with luggage.
• Yen – Cash is king in Japan, so we ordered some Yen from our bank to bring (decent rate.) If you get it in Japan, we’re told the best deals are at ATMs at 7-11s. 7-11 is a different beast in Japan. They actually have pretty epic grinds.
• Storage Lockers – extremely popular these days, lockers at stations are often full. Some stations have rooms where you can store your luggage but you have to be sure to pick up your bags before closing time.
• Public Transport – See my tips above about getting a SUICA for subways, buses and trains around town. For the bigger bullet trains, you’ll need to book those with the app.  We found using the subways was really easy. Using the bullet trains was much more complicated. Taxis are everywhere and much cheaper than Uber. TaxiGo app is worth downloading and funding. Very easy.

More Tips from Mary

• Nakameguro – trendy area great for bars, restaurants, boutiques — good chance it’s very crowded if the blossoms are out, there’s a river lined with cherry trees
• Shimokitazawa – hipster central, fun place to thrift shop
• Ebisu has similar vibes to northeast Tokyo, but last time I was there was like 8 years ago.
• Kichijoji – super local neighborhood, great for barhopping — Culinary Backstreets does a tour here – they also launched a new tour that looks pretty cool in eastern Tokyo! CB tours are expensive, but worth it. If you do a tour, recommend doing it on your first night in the city – great way kickstart your intro to the city and have context to build off of the rest of the time you’re there. Check the list of foods if you can – you’ve been to Japan before and will have been there for a week already, make sure sounds like it’ll still be new to you.
• Yanaka Ginza – granny shopping area, super retro, great for sampling street food and just walking around
• Cat Street – connects Shibuya to Jingumae (Harajuku area) – filled with boutiques, cafes, etc. Also haven’t been there since pre-covid.
• Roppongi Park and Shinjuku Garden are both beautiful for fall foliage or spring too I imagine.
• Find a shotengai (shopping area or alley) and just explore! I think Ebisu, Yurakucho, Kichjoji will be great for this. Shinjuku is WAY TOO CROWDED.

Flights with Kids Tips

We’re still trying to iron out the best use of our time on the plane. Here’s what did:

Some Important Phrases

Basic Greetings & Politeness

• Hello – KOHN-nee-chee-wah
• Good morning – Oh-ha-YOH go-zai-mass
• Good evening – KOHN-bahn-wah
• Goodbye – Sah-YOH-nah-rah jaa neh
• See you later – Mah-tah neh
• Please koo-dah-sai
• Thank you – Ah-ree-GAH-toh
• Thank you very much – Ah-ree-GAH-toh go-zai-mass
• Excuse me / Sorry – Soo-mee-mah-sen
• Please – Oh-neh-GAI shee-mass
• Yes – Hai
• No – EE-eh

Essential Travel Phrases

• Do you speak English? – Eh-go oh ha-nah-seh-mahs kah?
• I don’t understand – (Wakarimasen) Wah-kah-ree-mah-sen
• Help please? – (Tasukete kudasai) Tah-soo-keh-teh koo-dah-sai
• Where is…? – (… wa doko desu ka?) wah doh-koh dess kah?
◦ Where is the bathroom? – (Toire wa doko desu ka?) Toy-reh wah doh-koh dess kah?
◦ Where is the train station? – (Eki wa doko desu ka?) Eh-kee wah doh-koh dess kah?
• How much is this? – (Kore wa ikura desu ka?) Koh-reh wah ee-koo-rah dess kah?
• I would like this one – (Kore o kudasai) Koh-reh oh koo-dah-sai
• I’m lost – (Michi ni mayoimashita) Mee-chee nee mah-yoh-ee-mah-shee-tah
• I need a doctor – (Isha ga hitsuyō desu) Ee-shah gah hee-tsoo-yoh dess
• Can I use a credit card? – (Kurejitto kādo wa tsukaemasu ka?) Koo-reh-jit-to kah-doh wah tsu-kah-eh-mahs kah?

Dining & Food

• A menu, please – Meh-nyoo oh koo-dah-sai
• I have a food allergy – (Arerugī ga arimasu) Ah-reh-roo-gee gah ah-ree-mahs
• Can I have water, please? – (Omizu o kudasai) Oh-mee-zoo oh koo-dah-sai
• Cheers! – Kanpai) Kahn-ai

Transportation

• Train – 電車 (でんしゃ, Densha) Den-shah
• Subway – 地下鉄 (ちかてつ, Chikatetsu) Chee-kah-teh-tsu
• Taxi – タクシー (Takushī) Tah-koo-shee
• Bus – バス (Basu) Bah-soo
• Airport – 空港 (くうこう, Kūkō) Koo-koh
• Ticket – 切符 (きっぷ, Kippu) Kee-poo
• One ticket to [Tokyo], please – [東京]までの切符をください ([Tōkyō] made no kippu o kudasai) [Toh-kyoh] mah-deh noh kee-poo oh koo-dah-sai

Shopping

• Do you have this in a different size? – (Betsu no saizu wa arimasu ka?) Beht-soo noh sai-zoo wah ah-ree-mahs kah?
• It’s too expensive – (Takasugimasu) Tah-kah-soo-gee-mahs
• Can you give me a discount? – (Nebiki dekimasu ka?) Neh-bee-kee deh-kee-mahs kah?
• I’m just looking – (Mite iru dake desu) Mee-teh ee-roo dah-keh dess

Cultural Phrases & Manners

• Nice to meet you – (Hajimemashite) Hah-jee-meh-mah-shee-teh doze o yo rush kuh
• I’m from [America] – ([Amerika] kara kimashita) [Ah-meh-ree-kah] kah-rah kee-mah-shee-tah
• I love Japan! – (Nihon ga daisuki desu) Nee-hon gah dai-skee dess
• I’m sorry (deep apology) – (Gomen nasai) Goh-men nah-sai
• Excuse me (passing through a crowd) – (Sumimasen) Soo-mee-mah-sen