Southern France doesn’t get much more authentic than the Ardèche. Of the dozen-plus French towns we’ve visited during this crazy trip, this was the only place where we met people who genuinely didn’t speak English.
It’s one of my favorite spots on the planet (it’s been around 25 years since my last visit) and is filled with an absolute treasure of humans. Coming back with my little family, we found plenty of ways to keep the kids engaged and active. Here’s what we did together in the Ardèche with our kids.
Getting To the Ardèche
Our trip to the Ardèche started with a smooth journey from Amsterdam to Geneva, finishing with a drive through scenic hills leading to the Ardèche. We picked up my Mom in Geneva after her flight from Virginia. After winding roads and some breathtaking views along the way, we arrived at the quiet village of Thueyts. It took around 4 hours to drive there, and we stopped for lunch at Le Royal. Great meal!
Thueyts
This was our base, and the charm of this small town immediately set the tone for our adventure. With its narrow streets and old-world atmosphere, it felt like stepping into a different time. This is also where Aunt Vanessa and Jean settled many decades ago. Since then, they’ve raised Charlotte there and enjoyed watching her raise their grandkids.
Pont du Diable
One of our first stops was Pont du Diable, an incredible stone bridge that spans the Ardeche River below. The legend surrounding it piqued our kids’ interest (all about a devil forcing villagers across it), and we spent some time taking in the view and swimming in the cold waters. The Ardèche river was clean and beautiful. Many people cliff-dove, and one kid went from the precipice of the bridge! Sketchy!
Market Day
Our French family welcomed us warmly. They introduced us to the Market Day at Place du Champ de Mars, where we wandered through stalls of fresh produce and local specialties. The kids sampled cheeses, and we picked up ingredients for dinner. Later, we had a memorable meal at Les Pavés Gourmands, where the rustic flavors of the region made an impression. It was a stones throw from our place.
Le Bouchon Ardéchois
One evening, we dined at Le Bouchon Ardéchois, where we were treated to the incredible music of gypsy musicians. The intimate setting and soulful music created one of those rare, unforgettable evenings. We felt a deep connection to the region, and the kids were mesmerized by the energy of the music. We got up to dance, and the next thing we knew, we had started the dance floor! Everyone in the restaurant was going for it! SO much fun!
Mont Gerbier
Our exploration took us to some iconic landmarks, including Mont Gerbier de Jonc, the source of the Loire River. Though the hike is manageable (and I’ve done it before), we stayed at the base and enjoyed a very long, typical French meal in the grass. It was delicious and everything I could ask for. Lounging with my family with delicious food is a favorite pastime, especially in France.
Pont d’Arc
If you want awe-inspiring, this is the spot. We were blown away by the enormity of this area. It was so beautiful! We swam, climbed rocks, lounged along the river, and had a blast!
Grotte Chauvet 2
Grotte Chauvet 2, a replica of the famous Chauvet Cave, was another highlight. Even though it’s a replica, the detail and storytelling made it an awe-inspiring experience for the whole family. It’s pretty remarkable that this place was only just discovered in 1994, and that its 36,000-year-old art dwarfs Lascaux by 18,000 years! We couldn’t take any video or photos within the replica, so all the footage/pics are from exhibits.
Talloires by Lake Annecy
It was very hard leaving our cousins, Auntie and Uncle, but we had the next leg ahead of us. We drove directly to Lake Annecy where our Maui friends, the Ribets, we’re waiting for us in the little lake-side town of Talloires. “Picturesque” doesn’t do this region justice. Probably the most beautiful place we’ve ever visited on this incredible planet!
MORE Things to do in the Ardèche
Exploring the Villages
The small towns of the Ardèche are full of charm. Visit Labeaume and Vogüé, two medieval villages. Narrow, cobblestone streets, stone houses, and small squares were all great to explore on foot. The kids will love roaming around freely in these safe, pedestrian-friendly towns.
- Labeaume – Quiet, tucked along the river. Look for a small café by the water for a simple lunch, and then put your feet in the cool river afterward.
- Vogüé – This village, built into the cliffs, offers more to explore, with a few hidden paths that are perfect for fun walks.
Kayaking Down the Ardèche River
A must-do in the region is kayaking down the Ardèche River. The river cuts through spectacular gorges, and it’s a fun way to spend a day with kids. We regret not having booked a half-day trip. Next time!
Hiking and Nature Walks
Spend a few afternoons hiking the Gorges de l’Ardèche. The trails vary in difficulty, but there are family-friendly options that offer breathtaking views over the river. You can keep from strenuous hikes, but even the easier hikes allow for amazing photo opportunities.
- Bring Water – The summer heat can catch up with you. We made sure to have enough water and snacks whenever exploring.
- Wildlife Spotting – Keep your eyes open for local wildlife. We spotted some interesting birds and a few lizards along the trails, which the kids found fascinating.
Here’s my Daughter’s Account:
DAY 1
We got up early in Amsterdam and took a plane to Switzerland, where we rented a car and picked up Gabba from her flight arriving in Geneva.
We then drove for four hours to the town of Thueyts in the Ardèche of Southern France to see our French cousins (Louise and Mathilde!). We stopped for a great lunch along the way.
We arrived at a cute little house in the center of the village. We can walk everywhere, and the cousins live only a few minutes’ drive away. We finally got to meet the cousins we’ve been pen pals with for years! We ate dinner and then slept.
DAY 2
Today we went to Pont du Diable (the Devil’s Bridge), a local spot to swim along the Ardèche River. We could walk to it from the bottom of the village. The water was beautiful and felt cold but refreshing. I was just getting in when a water snake swam right past me! I jumped in and swam away. All of us kids swam and played. Then, a kid jumped off the really high bridge!
Afterward, we went to Auntie Vanessa and Uncle Jean’s house. Jean and Vanessa built this home by hand from ruins many decades ago. Dad has fond memories of visiting it from when he was a kid and a young adult. He thinks the house is haunted. It’s definitely haunted—I had an experience. Don’t ask Dad about the walk at night past the graveyard. Cringy.
We swam in their pool with our cousins. There were these really cute kittens, and we had lemonade too! We ate a delicious dinner outside! It was great!
DAY 3
Mom, Dad, and I went to market day in the center of the village, while Witt and Gabba stayed home. Then we all walked together to a nearby restaurant for lunch. We found a great meal just steps from our place, and it was relatively inexpensive too.
That night, we all met up for some gypsy music and dancing at Le Bouchon Ardéchois in Jaujac. The band was incredible, and the food was so good! Charlotte brought Fabrice, and he and Dad practiced their French and English. Somehow, they actually understood each other. It was really fun hanging out more with our cousins. And we even started the dance party! This was one of our favorite nights in Europe!
DAY 4
We woke up and went to the cousins’ house. They had a really sweet cat that would start purring even if you were four feet away! It was black and white. They had a round pool that we swam in. I also played a block game and saw a big beetle. Louise practiced her biking, and we played with scooters. We ate a beautiful, fresh dinner with them and talked and played until well after dark again.
DAY 5
Today we took what felt like an eight-hour drive to Mont Gerbier de Jonc. The drive was really pretty, and we got perfect weather yet again. I had an omelet, and I took videos of Witt throwing his shoes at me. We enjoyed a very long meal in the grass at the restaurant there. This is the source of the Loire River, and Mom is obsessed with how tasty and pure the water is.
I bought a pen, Witt got a cool hat, and my parents got two sheepskins.
Once we got home, we played dominos and then slept.
DAY 6
Today we went to see the Lascaux Cave paintings! They’re estimated to be between 17,000 and 20,000 years old! It turns out the place we visited was a copy of the actual cave, but it still looked very real. Disturbing the original would eventually destroy the oldest human art, so they made a perfect replica.
We also went to the Pont d’Arc! YAY! It was so beautiful! I built a big rock pile with Witt and the cousins, and I got to use my underwater camera a lot. We stayed there for a long time and then went to Vallon Town.
We played tag with a bunch of random kids while waiting for our pizza at a restaurant called Le Coconuts. (One of the little boys was following me.) After dinner, we shopped around, got lost, looked at jewelry, and then went home.
DAY 7
Wittaker, Dad, Gabba, and I got Nutella waffles in the village without Mom knowing! HEHEHE!
We went to Aunt Vanessa’s house for Raclette after shopping. The cheesy goodness was glorious! We also got to tour the property, including the wine cellar. There were adorable kittens everywhere! They were nursing from their grandma. We had a great bubble gum contest. It was a really fun night!
0 Comments